A Country in Transition

Having only lived in Saudi Arabia for a year and only in one city that is nearly half expat and half Saudi, I don’t have a lot of experience but there are some interesting observations I have made.  I think they can only be only understood in the light of the dramatic social changes that are happening within the kingdom with respect to the position of women and their social freedoms.

Saudi women only recently got the right to vote in 2015.  And although there weren’t any elections of any kind held between 1965 and 2005 in the kingdom, it still seems like a step in the right direction. Saudi women also began driving in June of this year. These are undeniably great strides for women’s rights in the kingdom but it is important to remember that these are legal rights.  The decision of whether a woman is allowed to exercise these rights is ultimately up to her male guardian.

Personal Observations

What follows is a list of observations that could be (and are) totally confusing to an outsider expat who has no idea what to expect when first entering the kingdom.  What I have learned to do is to try to observe what everyone else is doing first, if possible then choose my course of action.

There have been times when I have made the wrong social choice but in general, Saudis, men and women alike, are very helpful especially when it’s obvious I’m not from around these parts (blond hair, blue eyes, no head or face veil, and the expression of oblivious confusion are good indicators).

First Impressions

When I first arrived last year I was greeted by 2 gentlemen from a VIP service, provided by my employer, who were to guide me through the steps involved in getting into the country.  Although very helpful in this process and with my luggage, they did not seem to notice that I was carrying 3 bags, a stroller, and an exhausted toddler.

I have noticed when dealing with young Saudi men in positions of service, they often come off as timid or rude, or, in the best cases, afraid of me.  I suspect they are perhaps not comfortable with the interaction with non-Saudi, non-veiled, or non-related women. Whether it is one of those or a combination of all 3, I have no way to know, but I no longer take offense. They are cordial and helpful if a bit standoffish.

I had been advised to cover up with a jacket as I stepped off the plane but, not sure what to expect, I was still uncomfortable without an abaya.  I no longer feel this way in the airport here. The rules for women’s dress is slightly relaxed here and I feel fairly comfortable taking off the abaya and sometimes even exposing my forearms in the airport, especially if it’s hot.

The Abaya

I was provided an abaya by the school before I exited the airport.  This is a long, free-flowing garment that women are obligated to wear in the country.  Although Sheikh Abdullah al-Mutlaq, a top religious cleric in some position of authority as I understand it, has said women should not be required to wear it, I have not observed any change in the women in Jubail.  So abaya I shall wear. Typically I don’t mind it, and it can be nice to be able to wear whatever I want beneath, it is a bit uncomfortable in hot weather.

Abaya with Niqab

The Sociology of the Abaya

I observe what can only be described as 3 sets of dress code rules in public here with respect to women and their dress: Saudi women, non-Saudi Muslims, and others.

Saudi women are covered head to toe with a black hijab (a generic term for any garment covering the hair), black niqab (veil for the face covering the everything but the eyes), and the black abaya.

Non-Saudi Muslim women generally wear the hijab and abaya but not the niqab unless from another ultra-conservative Muslim country. These are often black but the hijab, and sometimes the abaya can be a variety of colors.

Non-Muslim women wear the abaya, usually black or another dark color (I have a blue one), but I have also seen bright colors around as well.

When Saudi women are working, they wear the black hijab and niqab but then I also frequently see uniforms of a calf-length abaya with pants beneath.

I have heard of non-Muslim women venturing out without an abaya or with an open abaya.  (Personal opinion alert!) I have not seen or done this myself. As a younger, blond-haired, blue-eyed women I choose not to draw any additional attention to myself and my family.  I also feel it is my place as the expat outside to obey the social rules of the culture into which I have been allowed. If Saudi women want to change the way they dress in public, it will be up to them and Saudi men to lead that fight.  It is not my place as an outsider.

Public Spaces and Gender Segregation

Some restaurants have separate entrances for single men and for women, but not all.  They will have room dividers available to put next to booths of women who wish to take off their veil during the meal.  If not, women discreetly lift their veil to eat and drink.

Separate Sections

The supermarkets I have seen do not have separate entrances but will have lines for females only.  These usually aren’t observed and you get in whatever line is shortest. Yet sometimes within these stores in places like customer service, there will be separate lines for men and women.  Sometimes. A colleague also reported that the coconut scraping service accessible through a window located in the back of the produce section frequently has separate lines for men and women!  Men and women may not have their coconuts scraped together.

Some stores will not admit single men (men who are alone) such as women’s clothing and underwear stores.

Personal Example at the Hospital

I have been to a clinic with a separate entrance for women and men but the women’s entrance was locked so apparently, they don’t use it.  The hospital we typically go to for medical care does not have separate entrances but will have separate lines for checking in for men and women WITHOUT an appointment.  There is a separate location for checking in with an appointment, and sometimes there are men’s and women’s lines here, sometimes not.

As a last observation and personal commentary,  I was recently admitted to the hospital, it was in a women’s ward.  Men were allowed but not after 9 PM. The window in the room was darkened so you could not see in, or out.  When I had to travel off the ward for tests, I had to wear the abaya. In the kingdom, people are frequently admitted to the hospital for minor procedures that would either be outpatient in the West or for most conditions, would be sent home to self-monitor.

I sometimes think this is excessive but on the other hand, as I had time to contemplate while in the hospital, this can also serve a protective function for women of husbands/guardians who are less than progressive in their thinking. Whether it is intentional or unintentional, I think it is still effective.  If a woman was sent home and told to rest, would she be allowed to do so? Food for thought.

Share some feedback!

I hope that was informative and I will be keeping an eye out for anything else of interest for future blog post fodder.  Kevin and I also welcome suggestions on blog post topics from anyone interested so feel free to ask questions and make recommendations.